🍒 Watch These Ridiculous Slot Cars Race at 100 Mph

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It’s pretty much 1.2 g from 60 mph down to a halt.—Chris Walton. Slot Car. Imagine a gigantic slot car, and you’ll get the idea. Of course, the slot you’re following isn’t an actual slot but a virtual one, a sharply defined path the steering angle has mentally scribed on the road ahead of you.


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Gav and Dan found the fastest RC car on the market and immediately drove it into a pit of sand, engulfed it in flames read article then crashed it into another RC car.
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Ya straight line drag racing. It runs on a actual scale quarter mile track. I think it is around 52 feet. The car runs almost 50 mph. It is a lot of fun I am currently building a tube chassis for it. And probobly gonna get a faster motor. Some of the cars at the track are extremely fast. Running in excess of 100 mph


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Building A Slot Car Motor: Slot Car motor building seems to be a black art to many racers.
Common sense and some basics should help you work some magic of your own.
You probably started out with a 16d slot car motor and may now want to advance to a Mura Challenger one arm.
The advantage here is the way the wire is attached to the commentator tabs and a much https://spin-casinos-deposit.website/100/promo-bonus-deposit-100-member-baru.html commutator and overall better armature construction.
We'll walk through a conversion and some tuning tips.
Before taking your slot car motor apart, mark the top of the can and endbell with a file or dremel tool cut off wheel so you can put them back in the same location.
Now take your 16d apart.
But be sure you can see the paint mark on the right hand magnet looking at the top of the can with the endbell facing away from you before you remove the magnets.
You must be able to put the same magnet back into the can on the same side as it was before.
If not you will have reversed the direction the motor turns which you don't want.
If you can find no mark, paint one on with some slot car body paint on just the right hand magnet.
Then clean the can, the magnets and endbell out with some kind of mild solvent or hot water and soap.
Dry it all well with mild warming or an air blast.
Set the 16d arm aside for future use if still good.
Get a new challenger I source and have the shop owner, if he has one, put it in his comm lathe and give it a skim cut to true it.
I find many of the new arms right off the self are not true.
Then make sure that the comm slots are cleaned out with the back side of a 11 exacto knife blade.
This is to 100 mph slot car digging into the sides of the slots.
Remove 100 mph slot car small burrs or copper shreds.
Then take the point of a very fine point ball point pen and rub the top edge 100 mph slot car each slot to 100 mph slot car it a bit.
When done, you should see a small shiny area on each side of the slot.
This will help eliminate brush shock, wear and bounce on the sharp edges.
Avoid scratching the comm surfaces or getting greasy fingerprints on the shiny copper.
For the next step, you need a brush hood alignment tool.
Assemble the can, and endbell with no magnets by using can screws to keep it all in position.
First, insert the alignment tool into the endbell brush hoods.
Then insert the alignment rod representing the armature shaft thru the endbell and thru the alignment tool all the way thru the rear bearing.
If it is all too tight, loosen the hood screws to ease alignment.
It may be necesary to take a small rat tail file and open up one or more of the hood screw holes.
The rectangular alignment bar should move back and forth very easily thru both brush hoods when they are tightened down 100 mph slot car screws.
Then the alignment rod should slide up and down easily thru the motor bearings and the hole in the rectangular alignment bar as well.
It may take a bit of shimming or filing to get everything aligned in all directions.
This will make a big difference in your motor performance.
Now assemble the can, endbell and the armature without the magnets.
Make sure the arm spins very freely in the can bearings with no binding.
If there is any binding you may have to realign the bearings either rotationally or perpendicular 100 mph slot car the shaft.
A little time here pays big dividends.
Reassemble the can, arm and 100 mph slot car magnets 100 free slot games for fun with the endbell.
Space out the arm in the can with just an oil slinger phenolic oil washer and a couple of.
Space out the rear of the arm and can bearing with brass washers to allow about.
Make sure the magnets with keepers are centered along the whole armature stack.
The arm, when centered in the can, should not be pulled fore or aft by the magnet alignment.
If allowed by your rules, use a small amount of epoxy to hold the magnets in place so they can not move fore and aft.
Anytime the arm is pulled one way or the other by the magnets it causes drag and a reduction of motor speed.
You may have to shave off some 100 mph slot car material from the back side of the endbell to allow the magnets to move far enough forward.
But be careful to not remove the can to endbell retaining screw holes.
Now with the can assembled and the screws in place, we can start on the brushs.
Get new Mura Bigfoot brushes.
You can try the new softer ones but for the money difference I have found no big advantage to them.
Also get two sets of new brush springs, one set of light and one set of extra light.
First, take the brushes and with a 11 Exacto knife blade and scrape lightly along the long side of each of the four sides of each brush to lightly bevel the edge.
This prevents an interference fit between the edge of the brush and the corner of each brush hood side which could cause the brush to hang up.
I also like to lightly scrape the front edge of each brush face to reduce the initial contact of the brush with the commutator for the break in period.
Install the brushes and the extra light springs.
The little post that sticks up to hold the spring leg end in place should be vertical and not bent over.
This makes it a lot easier to change springs later.
And there is less chance of breaking off the small post by bending it back and forth to get the spring leg off.
Now you're ready for break in.
Apply only about 6 volts to the motor and let it run in for about 5 minutes.
Either hold it in your hand or rig a clamp lightly in a vice.
Then apply 12 volts for about one more minute.
Do this with the motor out of the chassis.
Now remove the brushes one at a time and mark the top of each https://spin-casinos-deposit.website/100/100-bonus-tax-reform.html with a permanent marking fine point pen to make sure you put each back in place exactly as you took them out.
Check the brush wear pattern on its face.
If it is to one side or the other noticeably, you may have to realign the brush hood in the right direction.
If it is centered you did a good job.
If you have an ammeter meter available, put it in series with one side of the power supply.
The reading under no load should not fluctuate more than a very small amount at free run.
Any noticible rapid flucuation of the current reading could indicate the armature may be out of round.
The amp draw should not be over 1.
If under 1 amp you will need to use the light springs instead of the extra light to bring the performance up a bit more.
Too high a draw indicates a drag somewhere or an arm problem.
Remember the amp draw, 1.
Then install the motor in the chassis with gears and wheels.
Check for drag or binds.
The amp draw with the car ready to run should not be more than.
Any more than that and you need to track down a drag or bind problem.
Get that gear mesh perfect.
Oil the bearings lightly.
Check the axle and bearing alignment.
These are the basics.
They apply to almost any motor, whether you are just changing an arm, tuning a new motor or building a much hotter motor.
As you progress from this type of motor, the basics remain the same.
You will just spend more time and money achieving the same sort of performance.
As with anything, the faster you go the more it costs in money or time and precision.

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Slot car racing (also called slotcar racing or slot racing) is the competitive hobby of racing with powered miniature autos (or other vehicles) which are guided by grooves or slots in the track on which they run. Slot cars are usually models of actual automobiles, though some have bodies purpose-designed for miniature racing. Most enthusiasts.


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I am wanting to build a car that can break 104 mph and i am wondering what the best chassis set up is to do that.
The WRP Chassis as well.
With a "choice" Koford.
It was a wing car qualifing arm from the early 90's.
Also ran the DRS Camaro body However is was painted to look like a Mustang, LOL Car ran.
I have the MPH record at the track but not the et record.
I'm lucky to run at 60mph!
I would love to break the 8 second barrier and the 80mph barrier, but it seems almost impossible!
When cleaning we may spray glue the track lightly but bet 100 10 bonus it.
When you start running purple dot, Topgun, and Opens the ball game changes.
It takes a well setup car, correct gearing, and proper glue procedure to run the big number.
I race alot of flexi cars and use the rule of thinking about what the car needs to do for it to feel like I want it to.
I have been applying the same strategy to drag racing.
I would look real hard at the wheelie bar, then go to gearing.
If you can get the car to launch soft and then come in that might help you run the big numbers.
Practice different glueing methods.
Do you guys glue the entire track to produce these speeds and times?
I'm lucky to run at 60mph!
I would love to break the 8 second barrier and the 80mph barrier, but it seems almost impossible!
Yes, around 35' of the track is "Rolled out" with Koford heavy.
Also trying a few "mixtures" to see if we can speed it up even more in the back half of the track.
Archie We have rules against that at my track!
We can't go past 16" from the starting line.
We can go down to half track and roll back, but we're not allowed to put any glue down after 16".
And that's just because we have over 200 cars on a Friday night.
It's a time factor.
We have one guy, and I'm not kidding, he will take over 15 minutes to glue the track if we let him.
So I don't know how your rolling out 35' of something broker 100 welcome bonus something />Yellow wrote: We have rules against that at my track!
Most tracks do but then again most tracks run bracket races as you note of several hundred entries.
At big class races the classes are normally broke out into "like groupings" 100 mph slot car often on different days or in order of speed and et, slower first and build over the day.
In these cases the base is already down by the time the stupid fast are running OR the track is prepared for the class before the event starts or between classes and as such not more than a minute is required to preen the track for your round.
They all take about the same prep work.
We prep the track with glue and start racing.
NOT with the bracket cars.
Archie Yes, around 35' of the track is "Rolled out" with Koford heavy.
Also trying a few "mixtures" to see if we can speed it up even more in the back half of the read more />Archie If you need 35 feet of heavy glue https://spin-casinos-deposit.website/100/promo-bonus-deposit-100-member-baru.html hook your car up, it might be time to invest in a set of tires that haven't been reduced to ashes.
No, no, glue board and mush button.
And 100 mph slot car only make 3 passes on a set of tires.
New tires for qualifing and new tires to start racing.
If I make it to the finals, another set of new tires.
Have you actually ran a fast drag car?
Archie No, no, glue board and mush button.
And I only make 3 passes on a set of tires.
New tires for qualifing and new tires to start racing.
If I make it to the finals, another set of new tires.
Have you actually ran a fast drag car?
Archie That's all I ran.
Ever hear of BOGG glue?
Think maybe that Heavy glue is the reason your tires only last 3 runs?
What kind of arm.
Where can I see one?
Are they for sale?
That's all I ran.
Ever hear of BOGG glue?
Think maybe that Heavy glue is the reason your tires only last 3 runs?
Yea but the bogg here seemed to come undone on the big end.
The tires are fine, I just slip new ones on for peace of mind.
And then sell the used ones to someone that needs them.
Have you stopped racing?
Seems you would be in the Four ohs by now?
I am building two new cars right now and going to a.
Just to see if it will back half better.
What do you think.
Archie Why don't you try a 10 segment KING NITRO MOTOR you should be looking at.
It's a segmented neo motor.
It does exist and when it can make a good pass the.
My fullsize c-can neo motor has run.
And that's just a punk motor.
Over 50 passes on them!!
Straight Koford drag glue.
More in it, fresh set up and arm so not fully sorted yet.
Oh yea, they exist.
Do more with less!!
It's a segmented neo motor.
It does exist and when it can make a good pass the.
My fullsize c-can neo motor has run.
And that's just a punk motor.
Even looking at Martyn's motor, your still.
I just don't see that happening with a 20 plus turn arm.
Where can I see this motor?
Archie Even looking at Martyn's motor, your still.
I just don't see that happening 100 mph slot car a 20 plus turn arm.
Where can I see this motor?
Archie Archie your right.
Won't happen at 25 turns but a world record isn't my goal.
The 100 mph mark was one of those goals and that's tagged and bagged.
The next is 4's at 25 turns.
Most think that isn't possible, I do.
Anyway the thread title is 100 MPH +.
The specific question was what chassis for 104 mph.
Mine is a scratch built solid tube axle sidewinder.
Won't happen at 25 turns but a world record isn't my goal.
The 100 mph mark was one of those goals and that's tagged and bagged.
The next is 4's at 25 turns.
Most think that isn't possible, I do.
Anyway the thread title is 100 MPH +.
The specific question was what chassis for 104 mph.
Mine is a scratch built solid tube axle sidewinder.
What makes this NITRO motor any better that a WRP Billet can, Cahoza degree'd endbell and the latest high timed 53 or 54 koford or Proslot Arm with the WRP Magnets?
Archie I agree, but I was more directing the world record toward Gary L.
What makes this NITRO motor any better that a WRP Billet can, Cahoza degree'd endbell and the latest high timed 53 or 54 koford or Proslot Arm with the WRP Magnets?
Archie Got ya Archie.
The difference is in total magnet energy or MGOe.
The hottest Cobalt materials 100 mph slot car out somewhere around 38 or 40 MGOe, the King motor magnet system is 52 MGOe and just short of.
This makes even hotter winds than the 54's or even 43's doable.
Think doubles and triples.
First time I saw a King motor run it covered the first half of the track shockingly quick.
Still haven't seen a full pass but OMG the front half was stupid quick.
Granted, there are not many tracks that can feed the beast but for those that can, like Mid-America or Marion.
Archie, that's pretty easy.
Paul at WRP doesn't make the can or magnets anymore.
I see Paul on a weekly basis, so I know that for fact.
For less than half the price of a cobalt set up, you can have a neo motor that will match the performance of a cobalt deal.
I'm pretty sure that Roger Cheichi and Dave Pfaff have been.
Here's a picture of Robert's Nitro motor.
I ran 100 mph with a c-can.
Archie, that's pretty easy.
Paul at WRP doesn't make the can or magnets anymore.
I see Paul on a 100 mph slot car basis, so I know that for fact.
For less than half the price of a cobalt set up, you can have a neo motor that will match the performance of a cobalt deal.
I'm pretty sure that Roger Cheichi and Dave Pfaff have been.
Here's a picture of Robert's Nitro motor.
I ran 100 mph with a c-can.
Gotcha, I still have several sets of Pauls magnets and cans.
I also have a set of the Neo magnets like the ones on banks website.
They don't fit in a standard C-can without some major work.
I as well have been over 100mph with a c-can motor.
I am interested in seeing how this plays out with the neos.
The pictures you linked, the first motor is a major modified Dragmaster can and the second set appears to be an older 27 style can.
Can I purchase a set or two of the 10mag neos.
I have a bunch of 27 cans and endbells laying around.
Could be interesting to build.
Archie Archie, We are actually using these magnets.
Doubled up, the gauss is incredible.
We have been experimenting with these for 100 mph slot car little over a year and performance is getting better.
These guys are the guys setting the standards.
In all honesty, for the price of neos, you can't beat the performance.
Had a bad start to the day and ran the good passes out of it before I got the car resorted after replacing the wheelie axle I destroyed on the first hit.
Rookie, wired it backwards.
Rodger knocks out and backs up 141 MPH pass and Dave pops a.
Rodger Chiechi raises the bar for C can Neo to.
Mike Nap for Strap can Neo.

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Brandon's vehicle of choice is a slot car. The 4-inch-wide car is built to scale 1/24th the size of the real thing.. The NASCAR slots reach speeds of about 30 mph. On a 1/24th scale, that is.


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Watch These Ridiculous Slot Cars Race at 100 Mph
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100 mph slot car

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Watch a 3D-printed remote-controlled car go 100 mph.. to make the car out of fewer pieces, creating fewer seams, thereby decreasing the amount of disturbance you get from the air (read: better.


Enjoy!
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Some of the fastest slot cars we could find were in the AA/FC class, which run the 55-foot scale quarter in about four-tenths at more than 130 mph, with the class record belonging to Michigan’s.


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Scale MPH speeds - General Slot Car Racing - Slotblog
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Comments
I am wanting to build a car that can break 104 mph and i am wondering what the best chassis set up is to do that.
The WRP Chassis as well.
With a "choice" Koford.
It was a wing car qualifing arm from the early 90's.
Also ran the DRS Camaro body However is was painted to look like a Mustang, LOL Car ran.
I have the MPH record at the track but not the et record.
I'm lucky to run at 60mph!
I would love to break the 8 second barrier and the 80mph barrier, but it seems almost impossible!
When cleaning we may spray glue the track lightly but thats it.
When you start running purple dot, Topgun, and Opens the ball game changes.
It takes a well setup car, correct gearing, and proper glue procedure to run the big number.
I race alot of flexi cars and use the rule of thinking about what the car needs to do for it to feel like I want it to.
I have been applying the same strategy to drag racing.
I would look real hard at the wheelie bar, then go to gearing.
If you can get the car to launch soft and then come in that might help you run the big numbers.
Practice different glueing methods.
Do you guys glue the entire track to produce these speeds and times?
I'm lucky to run at 60mph!
I would love to break the 8 second barrier and the 80mph barrier, but it seems almost impossible!
Yes, around 35' of the track is "Rolled out" with Koford heavy.
Also trying a few "mixtures" to see if we can speed it up even more in click here back half of the track.
Archie We have rules against that at my track!
We can't click past 16" from the starting line.
We can go down to half track and roll back, but we're not allowed to put any glue down after 16".
And that's just because we have over 200 cars on a Friday night.
It's a time factor.
We have one guy, and I'm not kidding, he will take over 15 minutes to glue the track if we let him.
So I don't know how your rolling out 35' of track.
Yellow wrote: We have rules against that at my track!
Most tracks do but then again most tracks run bracket races as you note of several hundred entries.
At big class races the classes are normally broke out into "like groupings" or often on different days or in order of speed and et, slower first and build over the day.
In these cases the base is already down by the time the stupid fast are running OR the track is prepared for the class before the event starts or between classes and as such not more than a minute is required to preen the track for your round.
They all take about the same prep work.
We prep the track with glue and start racing.
NOT with the bracket cars.
Archie Yes, around 35' of the track is "Rolled out" with Koford heavy.
Also trying a few "mixtures" to see if we can speed it up even more in the back half of the track.
click to see more If you need 35 feet of heavy glue to hook your car up, it might be time to invest in a set of tires that haven't been reduced to ashes.
No, no, glue board and mush button.
And I only make 3 passes on a set of tires.
New tires for qualifing and new tires to start racing.
If I 100 mph slot car it to the finals, another set of new tires.
Have you actually ran a fast drag car?
Archie No, no, glue board and mush button.
And I only make 3 passes on a set of tires.
New tires for qualifing and new tires to start racing.
If I make it to the finals, another set of new tires.
Have you actually ran a fast drag car?
Archie That's all I ran.
Ever hear of BOGG glue?
Think maybe that Heavy glue is the reason your tires only last 3 runs?
What kind of arm.
Where can I see one?
Are they for sale?
That's all I ran.
Ever hear of BOGG glue?
Think maybe that Heavy glue is the reason your tires only last 3 runs?
Yea but the bogg here seemed to come undone on the big end.
The tires are fine, I just slip new ones on for peace of mind.
And then sell the used ones to someone that needs them.
Have you stopped racing?
Seems you would be in the Four ohs by now?
I am building two new cars right now and going to a.
Just to see if it will back half better.
What do you think.
Archie Why don't you try a 10 segment KING NITRO MOTOR you should be looking at.
It's a segmented neo motor.
It does exist and when it can make a good pass the.
My fullsize c-can neo motor has run.
And that's just a punk motor.
Over 50 passes on them!!
Straight Koford drag glue.
More in it, fresh set up and arm so not fully sorted yet.
Oh yea, they exist.
Do more with less!!
It's a segmented neo motor.
It does exist and when it can make a good pass the.
My fullsize c-can neo motor has run.
And that's just a punk motor.
Even looking at Martyn's motor, your still.
I just don't see that happening with a 20 plus turn arm.
Where can I see this motor?
Archie Even looking at Martyn's motor, your still.
I just don't see that happening with a 20 plus turn arm.
Where can I 100 mph slot car this motor?
Archie Archie your right.
Won't happen at 25 turns but a world record isn't my goal.
The 100 mph mark was one of those goals and that's tagged and bagged.
The next is 4's at 25 turns.
Most think that isn't possible, I do.
Anyway the thread title is 100 MPH +.
The specific question was what chassis for 104 mph.
Mine is a scratch built solid tube axle sidewinder.
Won't happen at 25 turns but a world record isn't my goal.
The 100 mph mark was one of those goals and that's tagged and bagged.
The next is 4's at 25 turns.
Most think that isn't possible, I do.
Anyway the thread title is 100 MPH +.
The specific question was what chassis for 104 mph.
Mine is a scratch built solid tube axle sidewinder.
What makes this NITRO motor any better that a WRP Billet can, Cahoza degree'd endbell and the latest high timed 53 or 54 koford phrase, titanbet 100 euro bonus consider Proslot Arm betting 100 deposit bonus the WRP Magnets?
Archie I agree, but I was more directing the world record toward Gary L.
What makes this NITRO motor any better that a WRP Billet can, Cahoza degree'd endbell and the latest high timed 53 or 54 koford or Proslot Arm with the WRP Magnets?
Archie Got ya Archie.
The difference is in total magnet energy or MGOe.
The hottest Cobalt materials top out somewhere around 38 or 40 MGOe, the King motor magnet system is 52 MGOe and just short of.
This makes even hotter winds than the 54's or even 43's doable.
Think doubles and triples.
First time I saw a King motor run it covered the first half of the track shockingly quick.
Still free slots machines 100 seen a full pass but OMG the front half was stupid quick.
Granted, there are not many tracks that can feed the beast but for those that can, like Mid-America or Marion.
Archie, that's pretty easy.
Paul at WRP doesn't make the can or magnets anymore.
I see Paul on a weekly basis, so I know that for fact.
For less than half the price of a cobalt set up, you can have a neo motor that will match the performance of a cobalt deal.
I'm pretty sure that Roger Cheichi and Dave Pfaff have been.
Here's a picture of Robert's Nitro motor.
I ran 100 mph with a c-can.
Archie, that's pretty easy.
Paul at WRP doesn't make the can or magnets anymore.
I see Paul on a weekly basis, so I know that for fact.
For less than half the price click to see more a cobalt set up, you can have a neo motor that will match the performance of a cobalt deal.
I'm pretty sure that Roger Cheichi and Dave Pfaff have been.
Here's a picture of Robert's Nitro motor.
I ran 100 mph with a c-can.
Gotcha, I still have several sets of Pauls magnets and cans.
I also have a set of the Neo magnets like the ones on banks website.
They don't fit in a standard C-can without some major work.
I as well have been over 100mph with a c-can motor.
I am interested in seeing how this plays out with the neos.
The pictures you linked, the first motor is a major modified Dragmaster can and the second set appears to be an older 27 style can.
Can I purchase a set or two of the 10mag neos.
I have a bunch of 27 cans and endbells laying around.
Could be interesting to build.
Archie Archie, We are actually using these magnets.
Doubled up, the 100 mph slot car is incredible.
We have been experimenting with these for a little over a year and performance is getting better.
These guys are the guys setting the standards.
In all honesty, for the price of neos, you can't beat the performance.
Had 100 mph slot car bad start to the day and ran the good passes out of it before I got the car resorted after replacing the wheelie axle I destroyed on the first hit.
Rookie, wired it backwards.
Rodger knocks out and backs up 141 MPH pass and Dave pops a.
Rodger Chiechi raises the bar for C can Neo to.
Mike Nap for Strap can Neo.

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I race alot of flexi cars and use the rule of thinking about what the car needs to do for it to feel like I want it to. I have been applying the same strategy to drag racing. I would look real hard at the wheelie bar, then go to gearing. If you can get the car to launch soft and then come in that might help you run the big numbers.


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Scale MPH speeds - posted in General Slot Car Racing: I was setting up Trackmate on a new 55 Oval track at Raytown International Raceway today. When setting up the scale speed I noted we were running scale speeds of 250 mph or so.


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Slot car racing (also called slotcar racing or slot racing) is the competitive hobby of racing with powered miniature autos (or other vehicles) which are guided by grooves or slots in the track on which they run. Slot cars are usually models of actual automobiles, though some have bodies purpose-designed for miniature racing. Most enthusiasts.


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The World’s Fastest Bumper Car Reaches an Insane 100 MPH. a bumper car that travels 100 miles per hour. And as you could possibly imagine, yes, that is indeed a new Guinness World Record.


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